Eating in Cape Verde – by Chef Kirk

NIKOLAJ KIRK, Chef extraordinaire, has completed a multi continental culinary expedition taking a close look into culinary culture in some of the most remote parts of the world. Chef Kirk has provided this travel description from Cape Verde that marks the start of our Cape Verde theme. Chef Kirk is currently writing a book on his adventures and Former Danish Prime Minister Poul Nyrup Rasmussen has written the prologue. Chef Kirk is very well known for his cooking shows - both for kids and adults.

A small colorful boat approaches the peer. It’s filled with thousands of silvery fish glimpsing in the sun. The strong fishermen are waving their arms signaling the boys to hold the ropes tight until the boat is placed just right for unloading the catch of the day.

Chef Kirk is in Cape Verde, a group of volcanic Islands, of which mostly consists of barren land, located about 300 miles of the coast of Africa.

The fish from the boat are taken in wheel barrels to be cleaned and sold right away. Selling the fish is the women’s job. They gut the fish, rinse them thoroughly and carry them in big plastic containers on the head to the local market.  

Cape Verde was discovered by the Portuguese in the middle of the 1500’s and the Islands shortly after became central to the slave trade as the Islands were strategically located between Europe, Africa and ‘the new world’. Experiments with growing tropical produce and raising life stock would supply the ships. In 1975 Cape Verde becomes an independent state after what is known as the ‘Coronation Revolution’. A new nation was born with new flag, new regime and new culinary traditions.

As Chef Kirk is standing on the peer looking as he discovers the beautiful Garoupa fish. They are bright red with blue spots everywhere. The meat is fantastic; bright white, juicy and very tender. Grilled Garoupa with fried kasawa and bread fruit is an exquisite meal.

Ships Jack, yellow finned tuna and ‘Wahoo’ is also to be found here. The Wahoo is a long, grim looking fish with very fine pink meat. Several types of squid, conchs and a giant nurse shark are suddenly pulled from the bottom of the boat. People are gathering on the peer laughing and cheering. The 10 feet shark is rinsed and filleted right away to the crowd’s excitement.

The locals like catching moraine. After it’s skinned and salted its grilled crisp and serve in local taverns with a cold beer or a glass of ‘Grogue’.  You have to be careful with the ‘Grogue’ as it is an extremely strong alcoholic drink. It’s made from sugar canes and resembles hard white rum. Almost all the sugar canes grown in Cape Verde is used for ‘Grogue’ production.  The locals are often mixing in syrup and call it ‘Pontche’. It has a more rounded flavor and resembles the golden brown rum.

The population is mostly African or descendants from Portuguese settlers and African slaves. Portuguese is the official language but among the locals it’s a Creole dialect. The produce is mainly tropical crops such as kasawa, pumpkin, yams, papaya, mango, small sweet bananas, and beans & of course dried corn. The dried corn is found in almost every meal.

They way food is prepared here is very different from the western worlds kitchens as most families does not have a fridge. This has a strong influence on the recipes. All ingredients are dried or fresh. The meal is prepared and eaten right away. Leftovers are put on the stove overnight for reheating the next day if there is any. 

Everything is fried in oil. The milk is powdered and the yogurt is made to last for a long time with no refrigeration. Most families can’t afford a fridge or even pay the electrical bill for running it.

Cachupa is the national dish and is made on every island in Cape Verde. Every family has their own recipe for this dish. A classic Cachupa is made with stewed corn, beans, fish or meat (beef or goat) but also chicken or pieces of sausage.

It is served at all hours of the day. In the morning it’s called Cachupa Frita and served with fried eggs. Cachupa is typical African cuisine. It’s cheap and very nourishing.

Cape Verde is a beautiful group if islands and the population is friendly and warm. The islands are like a string of pearls waiting to be re-discovered. Until that happens the air is filled with the rhythms of 'Norna', a music that almost sounds like the ocean calmly calling across the ocean.